After three days in hectic Bangkok, Weronika and I were excited to trade the big city for smaller, less touristy villages. Our first destination was supposed to the floating market in Damnoen Saduak. However, after reading more and learning it was basically a tourist trap, we headed straight to Kanchanaburi.

Our accommodation was close to the old town, on a narrow dirt road next to the winding river. Walking along the nearby main street, I observed the regular suspects:

  • Thai massage parlours
  • Old white men with young Thai girls (professionals, presumably)
  • Lots of tour operators

Weronika and I agreed the top two things to do were the beautiful Erawan Waterfalls and the infamous Death Railway. While I was ready to sign up with a tour operator, Weronika insisted we see them ourselves using local transport. She continued to claim that despite the fact that I physically carry around a backpack, I’m not a “real” backpacker. Partaking in tourist packages, choosing direct flights instead of trains or buses and staying in fancy hotels isn’t the backpacker style, she explained. I grinned and couldn’t disagree with her, and was completely OK with that. Sometimes a package deal allows you to do/see more in a shorter amount of time (efficiency), and at my age, I enjoy certain comforts (although I do enjoy hostels but really need to have a private room).

I readily accepted her challenge and the day was great! We steadily trekked to the 7th tier of the waterfalls and jumped into the murky and fish-infested waters, some of which “attacked” Weronika. She screamed and exited the water as quickly as possible.

Although we stayed at the falls around the same amount of time as a tour would have stayed, the perception is very different; with the former, you stay as long as you want and never look at your watch. With the latter, you spend more time stressing about missing the bus than enjoying the moment. So it’s was a good choice to move at our own pace.

Despite the heavyhearted history of the railway, it didn’t exude any negative emotions. Further, there was a peace and love festival that weekend, with loud, festive music and dozens of street vendors selling souvenirs, so the mood was lighthearted. And a large pineapple smoothie by the river was a great place to watch the sunset.