Alex in Motion

Varanasi was not part of our initial itinerary, but since we had several free days after shortening our time at the ashram, Selma and I decided to visit. It was a great choice 🙂

The highlight was the Ganges river ceremony, known as the aarti ceremony, which has occurred every evening for the last 600+ years. In essence, they pay tribute to the river for providing life. It was a humbling experience, due to the passion and dedication of the priests. There was also a full moon, which contributed to the vibrant energy. With VIP seats, we had a superior view high above the throng.

Really early the next morning, we enjoyed a boat tour on the Ganges, and comfortably watched the sun lazily rise. This was followed by an eye-opening visit of a crematorium by the shores of the river. Poor people who are unable to have a proper burial are able to be burned on a pyre. Special wood, gathered by boat 500km away, masks the smell of burning flesh.

The gentleman who explained everything has been doing this volunteer work for the last 35 years. He does it for karma, so him and his family will be well provided in this life (they don’t believe in reincarnation). I wasn’t allowed to take pictures of this area, and I’m quite sure you don’t want to see bodies being turned into charcoal anyway.

In other news, Selma dropped my camera, so I’m not able to take proper pictures for the next several days while it’s being fixed. I took a few photos with my camera, but obviously the quality is not the same. To compensate, here’s a video of a honking session during a mild evening in Varanasi.

Selma convinced me to spend a week in an ashram just outside Rishikesh, to practice meditation and yoga. It didn’t take much to convince me, as I was already curious about deepening the connection to my inner self and had previously practiced yoga a number of times.

My only conditions were the place must have a secular approach to meditation and the accommodations and meals must be included. She found an interesting place named Phool Chatti Ashram, located next to the mystic Ganges river. It seemed to meet our needs and much more. Unfortunately, it wasn’t quite what we hoped for. Upon arrival, we were given the daily itinerary:

• 05:30 wake-up bell
• 06:00 silent meditation
• 06:30 chanting
• 06:45 yogic cleansing
• 07:00 breathing exercises
• 07:15 hatha yoga
• 09:00 breakfast
• 10:00 karma yoga
• 10:30 meditative walk
• 12:30 lunch & tea
• 13:00 free time
• 15:00 lecture & discussion
• 16:00 ashtanga yoga
• 17:30 breathing exercises
• 17:45 temple pooja (ritual)
• 18:00 kirtan (sacred singing)
• 19:30 dinner
• 20:30 guided meditation

If you think that’s a lot and too intensive for a beginner, I agree. I made it two days before my body and mind gave out. On the 3rd day, Selma and I cancelled the rest of the week and left. Why exactly?

Firstly, the place didn’t have a secular approach. The chanting, singing and all rituals had a strong connection to Shanti, the deity associated to yoga. I wasn’t the only one to complain about this; there was a German couple that opt-ed out of these ceremonies as well. If I wanted to pray to a god, I would have picked a place that was upfront about it.

Secondly, the place was a paradox. For example, on the first day, the instructors said they wanted to break down the national boundaries of the 30 students and have us connect in other ways. Following this, they asked us to introduce ourselves with our country of origin (so much for eliminating nationalities) and said 80% of the week would be in silence (so much for trying to connect with others). I actually mostly enjoyed the silence, but it was quite awkward after travelling with a friend you’re used to talking with regularly. I wanted to share my new thoughts and feelings about the experience, but was unable.

Thirdly, the facility had an overabundance of cement, steel doors, locks, cages, sparse rooms, firm beds and tin roofs that made me feel like I was in a prison more than a place of peace. The only time I felt a peace was when I stopped going to the classes and relaxed on a patio overlooking the river.

Lastly, there was barely any free time to explore your own thoughts and ideas. Instead, the strict itinerary forced you completely obey the schedule, shoving plenty of other people’s thoughts down your throat.

A much less structured and religious ashram would have been better, and although this experience didn’t end well, I have not given up on my spiritual exploration.

Known as “Venice of the East”, Udaipur was my favourite city to date. A large and peaceful man-made lake craddled several hotels, one of which was Leela Palace. This 5 star palace was lavishly decadent, and compares to a 6 or 7 star hotel in North America. I’ve never seen such incredible and personalized service, such ultra high amenities and superb luxury, all with traditional Indian design mixed with modern elegance.

It started with a night boat ride from the main road to the hotel, with kind staff wishing us Namaste and helping with the luggage. We were guided to a spectacular room with breathtaking views of the hotel garden and lake. The general manager briefly discussed the features of the room and mentioned each floor has a concierge to handle any of our needs.

The food was outstanding, from sprawling buffets to continental cuisines. The spa was divine, and the facial and massage was much needed and appreciated. It was simply the most amazing hotel I’ve ever stayed at. Once again I need to thank my friend Am for highly recommending this experience.

Selma and I were supposed to only spend one night here, but were able to find a cancellation to spend a second. Since we really wanted to take full advantage of the hotel, we limited the tourist attractions and only visited the City Palace and a wonderful fountain park.

Here they are in pictures.