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Alex in motion

A journal of curiousity & travel

The way back home

During the previous week, while cruising on the motorcycle, I reflected on my upcoming return to Montreal. The thoughts invoked several emotions, from sadness to acceptance to anticipation.

Over the last year and half, I definitely lost and found myself. That was easy enough to do. I lost track of time, lost the need to overthink situations, lost the need to be liked by everyone, lost the ability to be easily embarrassed and lost the need for certain comforts of life. On the other side, I found self-support, found self-fulfillment, found inner happiness, found more pleasure in the little things and found new friends around the world. These are just some of the many reasons why I’m thoroughly grateful for this sabbatical. It has been the experience of a lifetime, with a lifetime of memories in a relatively short period of time.

Did I accomplish everything I wanted to? I’m not so sure. Before leaving, I started to write about the things I wanted to achieve, but I never finished the article and never went back to update it. Although I feel new and improved in many small ways, I also feel I could have bettered some things even more. For example, I am now quite comfortable dealing with uncertainty, but am not significantly better dealing with time-related stress. Heck, my life has slowed down so much I might be worse off than when I started.

I could have taken the opportunity to learn some new skills, such as sleight of hand magic or learn a new language, but after a few weeks on the road, my effort level plunged. Part of me wanted to just enjoy the moments, and not focus on anything, but I regret that now. By maintaining a small but consistent level of effort, I could have been in a much stronger position now.

Unlike the one year mark, I truly feel it’s time for me to return home. I greatly miss my family and need to spend time with them. My aging father recently needs a walking cane to rise from bed, and I want to enjoy his company while he’s still fully operational. Sammy has been asking me to take him to the arcade, and that would be a great pleasure.

People have asked what will I do upon my return. In truth, I’m not certain, but I would like to start by playing tourist in my own country, to ride my motorcycle for a few weeks and visit a few friends in Ontario. In summer, I’ll join my family in Barry’s Bay, the lakeside community I used to visit as a child.

Also, Weronika is returning with me, and I’m very excited to show her Canada. She’s never been to North America, and there’s a lot to show her. We’ll start with everything between Quebec City and Niagara Falls before heading south to Boston and New York City. It will be thrilling to revisit these places through her eyes.

I don’t expect the return to be easy, and have heard the repatriation process can be quite challenging; people have moved on since I left, and the familiar won’t been as familiar. I will need to lean on my family and friends for support during a transition period.

Perhaps I’ll love Montreal more than ever, or perhaps I’ll feel it’s not my home anymore and move on after a few months. Time will tell. But for now, I’m really looking forward to being there.

Motorcycling in Northern Thailand

Before leaving for Thailand, Weronika and I sat down with a bottle of wine and discussed what we each wanted to see and do. I’ve discovered through previous experiences that setting these expectations is critical when travelling with someone. The objective was understand what’s important, and plan accordingly.

I’m delighted to share my passion for motorcycling with Weronika, so it was quick and easy to agree that riding motorcycles in northern Thailand was on the top of both our lists. It is supposed to be a beautiful region, relatively untouched by tourists, and we decided on a 4 night, 5 day route.

During the ride, our goals where:

  • Visit a tribe of long neck people, known as the Karen Long Neck. Although visual fascinating, their traditions are slowly dying, as more and more of them elect to not wear rings around their necks, favouring modern lifestyles instead. Interestingly, I always though the rings pushed their heads up, when in fact they push their shoulders down.
  • Visit the Golden Triangle, the north eastern tip of Thailand were you can see both Myanmar and Laos across the river. It’s not a place you can spend a long period of time; 30 minutes is all you really need to soak in the views and atmosphere, but it’s interesting to see three countries in one glance.
  • Ride on Route 1148, which is one of the best drives in the world for motorcycling riding (source not available), with well paved curved roads and wonderful views.

We accomplished these goals and more.

After riding for a few hours, I realized that despite the chaos on the road, with the cars, the tuk tuks, the scooters and the motorcycles, drivers in Thailand tend to drive really well. They anticipate your moves, which allows them to pass you very closely, and they accommodate you when you’re passing them. It’s great to feel safe riding in a place that doesn’t initially inspire confidence.

The White Temple next to Chiang Rai is a modern masterpiece of white plaster embedded with reflective stones. We stopped for a few hours to admire the stunning and detailed architecture. Weronika felt like a princess, and rightly so.

Route 1148 was simply gorgeous. The winding roads lead up and down hills, with views of green valleys and jungles and small villages. Not only were the roads well paved, they slanted towards the turn, allowing you to really lean and feel secure. However, my rented motorcycle of several years didn’t feel so secure, and would have loved to be able to magically teleport my own motorcycle for this stretch of road. Despite that impossibility, we thoroughly enjoyed the thrills and didn’t stop to take many pictures (I do have videos though!)

In general, the north was quite non-touristy, with locals speaking little to no English, and the food was incredibly cheap. For example, a well-priced pad thai was 50 baht (2 CAD, 1.4 EUR) in most towns, and 150 baht in very touristy places. Here, a pad thai and soup with vegetables cost 50 baht together! A fan of bananas were 15 baht! Local food, local people, local charm.

Of all the towns, Nan was my favourite. Although we didn’t spend a night there because of our schedule, we did stop to rest and enjoy a quick bite. Not only is the town very charming, with rivers and parks, but it was the least touristy with still relatively modern conveniences. It’s harder and harder to find the real small town life in Thailand, and Nan is the current place.

Sukhothai & Chiang Mai

Sukhothai

Our next destination north took six hours and two buses to reach. Sukhothai is a cute town, with only a few majors streets and a large day market. The reason for picking this spot was the nearby historical park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the following day we rented a scooter to check it out.

The ruins were wonderful but the day was excruciating hot, forcing us to walk slowly (you were not allowed to drive scooters inside the main section of the park), drink plenty of fluids and nap under a huge tree. When we felt we had seen it all, we took full advantage of the scooter and explored beyond the city walls. Although there wasn’t much to see, it immediately felt more authentic. It strong suggested we needed to keep away from the touristy areas as much as possible. We kept that in mind going forward.

Chiang Mai

Although Chiang Mai is quite a large city with many industries, the inner city is surrounded by moat, which made the place feel intimate and cozy. Many trees lining the narrow streets, populated by eccentric restaurants, bars with various themes, relaxing cafes, tattoo parlours and massage parlours, all of which added to the chill vibe. Sure, there were plenty of tourists, but they didn’t take away from the soothing atmosphere.

Although I wouldn’t say Thai food is spectacular, it is quite enjoyable and we wanted to learn how to prepare some dishes. The class we picked offered a full day course, including a stop at a local market to learn which ingredients to purchase. The course itself was hosted at a farm, and was really well organized. Each person was able to choose seven dishes, and the staff did all the tedious work and then cleaned everything, leaving us to focus on the important parts.

I don’t want to brag too much, but my pad thai and sticky rice with mango were sensational! Being just an average cook, I was rather proud to learn a few new things and definitely plan to remake some dishes in Montreal (they provided a cookbook at the end of the day).

By that evening, Weronika and I were rather sick of Thai food and had a wonderful and romantic French dinner, with a delicate bottle of red.

We also found the best place for massages in Thailand! All of the massage therapists are blind, and gave strong but relaxing massages. We went twice; once for a 60 minute foot and reflexology massage, then a second time for a 90 minute Thai massage. When she was done, I was in a sublime state of bliss 🙂

 

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